Formulating a Lipgloss and Lip Oil

In this post, I will share how to formulate Lipgloss and lip oil. This blog post is a collaboration with Taralee (YouTube) (Website). For the video tutorial check out the video. 

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Natural Lipgloss
Lipgloss can be as simple as Oils, Butters, Waxes, and Pigment. However, for more stability, we add vitamin E to delay the onset of rancidity. To keep the pigments suspended, we add an oil-gelling agent. The two most common oil-gelling agents are hydrogenated vegetable oil and Cera Bellina. I know that hydrogenated vegetable oil gets a bad rap in the food industry, but it is not the same for cosmetics, and we are using it in a small percentage.
Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction in which more hydrogen is added to create a saturated (or full of hydrogen) hydrocarbon. The extra hydrogen makes the ingredient solid at room temperature and has better oxidative stability. It can come in off-white, and because of this, you cannot create a clear product with it. In addition, it will add some creaminess to your product. Cera Bellina is an oil-gelling agent derived from beeswax. So some may not consider it vegan. Cera Bellina can create clearer gels compared to hydrogenated vegetable oil. I am going to use 5% hydrogenated vegetable oil for the formulation. Blend light, medium, and heavy oils together for a great sensory feel. My favorite combination for Lipgloss is fractionated coconut oil (light triglyceride), avocado oil (medium-weight oil), and castor oil (heavy-weight oil). I will use fractionated coconut oil as this formulation's main oil and ingredient. I want to start with 20% avocado and 10% castor oil. You can use any oils you want for this—some factors to consider; are shine, taste, polarity, and oxidative stability.
Since we are making a gloss, we want to shine. Castor has great shine, which is why it is commonly used. I do not necessarily recommend ingesting your oils, but the test is a factor. I mistakenly used evening primrose oil in a lip product that tasted horrible. Polarity is also a consideration. I tried to make dimethicone 350 and plant oils to make Lipgloss, but the two do not mix because of polarity. We have an oil gelling agent, so that you can add some, but I would only add a little. The last consideration that I think is important is how prone the oil is the oxidation.
Yes, I will be using t-50 Mixed Tocopherols at 0.10%, which will help with oxidation, but some oils, like hemp seed oil, are very prone to oxidation and have a shelf life of 3 months. Vitamin E will extend that, but depending on your oils, you should alter the percentage of vitamin E. Vitamin E will be added to the cool-down phase. Next, let's add a butter as well. Since I will add an oil-gelling agent and waxes, I will only add 5% of butter. I want to use some refined cocoa butter. The refined version does not have the chocolate scent and may be better if you experience graininess. Oil-gelling agents do help with graininess so keep that in mind. For the waxes, I want to use a blend because different waxes have different crystalline structures. Adding a blend will create a more stable product. I am going to be using a blend of candelilla wax and carnauba. If you do not care that the formulation is vegan, you can use twice the amount of beeswax. I will use 1% each of candelilla and carnauba wax.
Now let's talk about color! We have a couple of options; mica, iron oxides, dyes, and lakes. First and foremost, make sure that they are lip safe! We cannot use ultramarine in the US, but in the EU, you can use them. So make sure they are safe and check your regulations. For a blue substitute, you can use Blue No. 1.

Micas are considered natural. Mica is a mineral that is mined. It is very shiny. Iron oxides are then coated in the mica to create different colors.
Iron oxides used to be mined but are now chemically synthesized for safety. By making them in a lab, we can control the contaminants. Iron oxides come in three colors for cosmetics: red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide. Iron oxides are matte pigments. They are not water or oil-soluble but are dispersible in oil. So to add them to a formulation, you need to disperse them and ensure there are ingredients to ensure that the pigments are suspended.
Lakes and Dyes I am going to group. There is a lot of misinformation about these in the food industry. No, they will not cause ADHD in your children or cause cancer. When used at the recommended usage rate, there is no worry. Some of them can stain the skin, so I would use gloves even if you are formulating for yourself. These are the most pigmented. Some of them are water-soluble. These come in all sorts of colors and undertones, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and black.
Pigmentation:
For light pigmentation, you can start with 1%. For a fuller coverage gloss, you can use up to 15%. For color cosmetics, it is recommended to include pigments and filler in your percentages. In my formulation, I am going to use 2%. I will list it as a color blend. I will
From least pigmented to most pigmented; mica, iron oxides, lakes, and dyes.
Dispersions: this is more of an advanced technique, but you can learn more on the diamond-level blog. I have multiple posts on how to do this professionally.
I do not have any flavor oils, but you can use those. Check your supplier for the usage rate. You can use some essential oil; however, I want to share a big disclaimer. You need to know what you are doing. Make sure you have an accurate scale to weigh them out. Know the safe usage rates so that you can use them. Be sure to include an antioxidant, as they are prone to oxidation.
Actives are a simple way to create a point of difference.
If you plan on selling Lipgloss, I would highly recommend a preservative. Make sure it is lip safe and oil-soluble.
For this formulation, I am going to make 25 grams.
Natural Lipgloss Formulation
Phase A
Fractionated Coconut Oil 55.90% 13.975g or 13.97g
Avocado Oil 20% 5g
Castor Oil 10% 2.50g
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 5% 1.25g
Refined Cocoa Butter 5% 1.25g
Candelilla 1% 0.25g
Carnauba wax 1% 0.25g
Phase B
Color Blend 2% 0.50g
T-50 Tocopherol 0.10% 0.025g or 0.03g
Calculations: 
100-(20+10+5+5+1+1+2+0.10)=55.9
55.9/4=13.975
20/4=5
5/4=1.25
0.10/4=0.025 
 Total: 13.97+5+2.50+1.25+1.25+0.25+0.25+0.50+0.03=25g 
Method:

• Sanitize all your equipment, containers, and workspace. 
• Gather all your ingredients and ensure your notebook is set up. 
• In a glass beaker, add all your phase A ingredients. 
• Heat to 75C, over a double boiler, until fully melted.
• While the mixture is melting, measure phase B in a glass beaker and ensure your packaging is ready. 
• Once melted, take off the heat and stir until 65C. Add phase B. Then, pour the formula into your final packaging, and you are done. Don't forget to make labels and date your formulation. 

Substitutions and Alterations Natural Lipgloss:
You can use other oils that you want. Keep in mind that it will change the lip feel of the formulation.

Lip Oil
Now let's talk about lip oil. These are even simpler than lip gloss. None of this formulation will be 100% natural, but I will leave suggestions in the substitution and alternations post. I do have a clear lip oil formulation here if you want it. (link) Lip oils are a blend of oil thickened slightly with an oil-gelling agent. I will use silica dimethyl silicate (SDS) for this formulation. I will use the same blend as before but swap the avocado oil with macadamia nut oil. I want the oils to be light so that when we add the thickener, we have something that is not too thick on the lips.
I have figured that most of them will want to add a tint to the lip oil. You can use dyes to make a staining tint. I would start with 0.5% Micas. Note that iron oxides will not stain the lips. This formulation will be heat free. To work with the SDS, you will need a mini mixer.
Easiest Method for Color:
Use Mica
Other Option:
Use a premade dispersion
Advanced Version
Make a dispersion with a mortar and pestle. Check this post (link)

Calculations:

• 100-(20+10+5+0.10)=64.9 
• 64.90/4=16.225 
• 20/4=5 
• 10/4=2.5
• 5/4=1.25
• 0.10/4=0.025 
• 16.22+5+2.5+1.25+0.03=25 

Safety: You will need a proper dust mask when working with
Silica Dimethyl Silicate.
Method:
Sanitize all your equipment, containers, and workspace. Gather all your ingredients and make sure that your notebook is set up. In a glass beaker, add all your phase A ingredients. Stir until the ingredients are uniform. Put on your dust mask for this step. Sprinkle phase B into the beaker. Pour into final packaging. Be sure to label and date your latest formulation.
Substitutions and Alterations Lip Oil:
You can use other oils that you want. Keep in mind that it will change the lip feel of the formulation. You can use another oil-gelling agent if you want
Please note these formulations are not meant to be used for your business. These will need to be properly stability tested before going into the market. Email us if you would like to use these formulations, and we can work something out.