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Let's meet a new ingredient Behentrimonium chloride (BTC). For full disclosure, the ingredient was sent to me for free from Crafting Cosmetics in exchange for a review. I have purchased from them before. I have to say, I am impressed with Crafting Cosmetics. Shipping is quite fast and the best price that I have seen. Their ingredients are not expensive and it is not a massive investment of money when you just want to see if you even like an ingredient. It is also a cosmetic chemist-owned brand. I appreciate all the SDS and certificate of analysis. They are a US based supplier. Just to clear this up before anyone gets confused. The owner and I both have the same first name. I do not own Crafting Cosmetic.  Behentrimonium chloride is a quaternary ammonium compound. Quaternary means that it has four groups attached to it. An ammonium compound is one with nitrogen. The nitrogen in this compound has a formal charge of 1+; due to the four groups attached to it, giving its positive charge. From this picture, we can see that Behentrimonium chloride has a longer chain. This means it will be less soluble in water than steartimonium and cetrimonium chloride. Behentrimonium chloride also, because of the longer carbon chain, has increased intermolecular forces meaning that it will have a melting point. To further add, we have hydrogen bonding due to the nitrogen-hydrogen bond. This will further increase intermolecular forces and raise the melting point. It makes sense that the melting point is 90⁰C Similar to Behentrimonium methosulfate; however, methosulfate is the counter ion.  Counter ions are what in chemistry we call spectator ions; they do not participate in the reaction. They spectate. Behentrimonium Methosulfate is the BTMS in BTMS-50 and BTMS-25. Besides the counter ion, these are the same. I have seen people state that Behentrimonium Chloride is more harsh but I do not see anything in the structure that would indicate that. Both of them are ionic or charged. The version I have is a mixture of Behentrimonium Chloride and Isopropyl Alcohol. I was quite surprised to see isopropyl alcohol in the INCI. I did a search and found that it is used to make the processing easier. Behentrimonium Chloride: Description: Behentrimonium chloride is a quaternary ammonium compound that is used as a cleansing, conditioning, anti-static, and softening agent. It is compatible with other cationic and nonionic substances. Ammonium compounds tend to smell fishy, so make sure that you test a formulation before you make a large batch. The active matter is 80%. It is an ionic (charged) emulsifier. INCI Name(s): Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl Alcohol Benefits:
Sources and References:
Active Matter Calculations: 80*0.005=0.4 80*0.01=0.8 80*0.0125=1.0 80*0.02=1.6 80*0.025=2.0 80*0.03=2.4 80*0.04=3.2 80*0.05=4.0 Leave-in Conditioner for 1C hair:  Calculations: 100-(5+3++0.20+1+1+1+0.10+0.50+0.20)=88 PH: 5.94 84.5C 0.16 Citric Acid 3.5 One drop TEA Final pH: 4.25 at 84.2C Method: Sanitize all your equipment, containers, and workspace. Gather all your ingredients and make sure that your notebook is set up. In a glass beaker, add your phase A ingredient. In a separate glass beaker, weigh out your phase B ingredients. Make sure that it is well mixed. While stirring, add phase B into phase A to create phase A/B. To ensure that the polyquaternium-10 is hydrated, mix for an additional 10 minutes. In a separate beaker, weigh out your phase C ingredients. Create a hot water bath. The water must be hot and high above the beaker as the Behentrimonium Chloride melts at 90⁰C. You could also use direct heat if you want. Just make sure to watch the product. It could be easy to burn your ingredients. Heat the phase A/B beaker and the phase C beaker to 90⁰C once they have rePour into the final packaging. Be sure to label and date your latest formulation. Adjusting pH: Adjusting pH (Dilution Method): Get two beakers; one will be used as our washing beaker, and the other will be used to make the dilutions. The main thing with making dilutions is you want to make enough that the probe can be covered. You can weigh 1 gram of product and 9 grams of distilled water to make a 10% dilution. Or you can weigh 2 grams of product and 18 grams of distilled water. Get your pH meter out and rinse with distilled water into the other beaker I had you get. Dry off the meter with a lint-free product. Mix it well and take the pH. If you use strips, do not dilute the solution, regardless of viscosity; the pH will be way off. Do not put the strips directly into the product. Even if you are taking the pH of the product now, you want to add your product into a separate beaker. Wait for the reading to be stable, note the pH, and discard the Sample after. Then put the product on the scale and tare it. Add 0.10g either the 50:50 citric acid solution (to lower the pH), the sodium hydroxide (to raise the pH), or TEA (to raise the pH of the product). Stir well, then wait at least 1 minute before making another dilution. Keep repeating the process until you get the desired pH. You will be surprised how much it may take. I recommend making a bigger batch than you want so you can account for that. Substitutions and Alterations: Substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. These substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work. To find out where to purchase ingredients check out the ingredient suppliers page (onlu on the diamond level blog). Let's look at a product that contains this ingredient. Product Example: https://theordinary.com/en-us/behentrimonium-chloride-2-conditioner-100409.html Aqua (Water), Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Phytic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin. From <https://theordinary.com/en-us/behentrimonium-chloride-2-conditioner-100409.html> Dilutant: Distilled Water Emulsifier/Conditioning Agent: Behentrimonium Chloride Thickener: Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum Chelator: Phytic Acid Preservative System: Phenoxyethanol and Chlorphenesin  Calculations:
100-(5+3++1+2.5+2+0.50)=86 Method: Sanitize all your equipment, containers, and workspace. Gather all your ingredients and make sure that your notebook is set up. In a glass beaker, add your phase A ingredient. In a separate glass beaker, weight out your phase B ingredients. Make sure that it is well mixed. While stirring add phase B into phase A to create phase A/B. To ensure that the polyquaternium-10 is hydrated, stir for an additional 10 minutes. In a sperate beaker, weight out your phase C ingredients. Create a hot water bath. It is really important that the water is hot and high above the beaker as the Behentrimonium Chloride melts at 90⁰C. You could also use direct heat if you want. Just make sure to really watch the product. It could be easy to burn your ingredients. Heat both the phase A/B beaker and the phase C beaker to 90⁰C. Once they have rePour into final packaging. Be sure to label and date your latest formulation. Adjusting pH: Adjusting pH (Dilution Method): Get two beakers; one will be used as our washing beaker, and the other will be used to make the dilutions. The main thing with making dilutions is you want to make enough that the probe can be covered. You can weigh out 1 gram of product and 9 grams of distilled water to make a 10% dilution. Or you can weigh out 2 grams of product and then 18 grams of distilled water. Get your pH meter out and rinse with distilled water into the other beaker I had you get. Dry off the meter with a lint-free product. Mix it well and take the pH. If you are using strips, do not make a diluted solution no matter the viscosity; or the pH will be way off. Do not put the strips directly into the product. Even if you are taking the pH of the product directly, you want to add your product into a separate beaker. Wait for the reading to be stable, take a note of the pH, and discard the Sample after. Then put the product on the scale and tare it. Add 0.10g either the 50:50 citric acid solution (to lower the pH), the sodium hydroxide (to raise the pH), or TEA (to raise the pH of the product). Stir well, then wait at least 1 minute before making another dilution. Keep repeating the process until you get the desired pH. You will be surprised how much it may take. I recommend making a bigger batch than you want so you can account for that. Substitutions and Alterations: Substituting ingredients will change the final feel, viscosity, and overall effect of final product. percentages and formulating procedure may need to change with substitutions. These substitution suggestions are just suggestions and have not been tested to work. To find out where to purchase ingredients check out the  This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
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