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Formulating Basics: Adding, Removing, or Substituting Ingredients in Formulations

3/13/2023

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After you find a reference formula, the next step you would want to take is adding more ingredients. Maybe substitute ingredients for what you have. In this post, I will tell you how to do that. This skill is a fundamental concept that you need to know how to do. This skill comes right after learning how to scale formulations, which you can learn here. (Link)
The first step is to know what the bulk of your formulation is. Is it water-based? Is it oil-based? Is it silicone based? Is it an emulsion? What are you using the most or highest percentage in your formulation?
In the case of a water-based formulation, you would add or subtract from the water to ensure that your formulation totals 100%. You would add or subtract the percentage from the primary oil for oil-based formulations. The primary oil is the one that you have the most of in your formulation. Sometimes the formulation can alter your discussion. For example, if you wanted to add an ester to a formulation to make it lightweight and have more slip, you would like to reduce the percentage of your heaviest oil. For example, let’s say this is your oil blend for a formulation.

Example Formulation:
Sunflower oil 90%
Castor oil 10%

You might found it to be quite heavy. So you have two options. You know you want to use an ester at 3%. You could subtract 3% from the sunflower oil to make the formulation look like this.

Formula: Subtraction from Sunflower Oil

Sunflower oil 87%
Isopropyl Myristate 3%
Castor oil 10%
​
Or you could subtract 3% from the castor oil, as you know it contributes the most to the heaviness.

Formula: Subtraction from Castor Oil
Sunflower oil 90%
Isopropyl Myristate 3%
Castor oil 7%
​
Essentially, you have options on what you subtract the 3% from. What is very important to understand is that no matter where you take it from, your formulation adds up to 100%. When it adds up to 100%, you know your formulation is at the correct percentages and can be scaled.
In the case of an emulsion, you need to know the solubility of the ingredients, heat tolerance, etc
Some considerations that would alter where you add the new ingredients. Suppose you wanted a specific oil phase or water phase percentage. For example, you wanted a 70% water phase. Or you might want a specific percentage of the oil phase, like 12%. I do this to get different viscosities, and skin feels for other applications on the body.
Key Points:
  • Make sure that your formulation totals 100%
  • Understand how altering the percentages of ingredients effects the final product.
  • Try it out

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This is part two of the Introduction to DIY Cosmetics E-Books. You can think of it as an elevated intro, as it builds off of the first e-book. I cover the topics that I did not in the first one.

By the end of this e-book, you will be able to make your own skincare routine, understand how to make various skincare products that are professional level.

This e-Book is for all skill levels.

Topics that will include:

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I get a ton of questions about formulating with acids. My usual response was, do not use them unless you know how to formulate with them. I have a whole eBook on the topic aimed at beginners. You will learn about acids, bases, pH, and pH meters.

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