Cosmetic Your Ways Blog

Zachariah Kovac 8/1/26 Zachariah Kovac 8/1/26

Friday Paper Review #1

Zachariah Kovac 7/31/26 Zachariah Kovac 7/31/26

Creamy Coconut Shaving Soap

In this post, I am going to be sharing my coconut cream shaving soap. I have been trying to use sodium stearate in different ways. One of the ways that suppliers were using it is to make shaving products. Supplier formulations inspired this formulation. Because of the sodium stearate, this is soap! It is same day formulation.

Zachariah Kovac 7/24/26 Zachariah Kovac 7/24/26

Adding Solubilizers to Surfactant Products

Another formulator claims that a solubilizer like polysorbates or PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil should not be used in surfactant products. I made a formulation with 15% polysorbate, but it did not foam. You can see that here. So, solubilizers can affect foam. Surfactants in the formulation should be able to solubilize the fragrance. If you want a clear formulation, then add a solubilizer.

Zachariah Kovac 7/17/26 Zachariah Kovac 7/17/26

Can’t Put a Hot Item on the Scale? Here’s How to Work Around It

Accurate weighing is essential in cosmetic formulation. Whether you are making a lotion, cleansing balm, shampoo, or conditioner, even a small weighing error can change the texture, stability, preservation, or performance of the finished product. Down the road, it can create issues as you try to scale up your formulation. But what happens when an ingredient, beaker, or formulation is hot—and you cannot safely place it directly on the scale?

Zachariah Kovac 7/10/26 Zachariah Kovac 7/10/26

Questions in my DMs Part 1: Natural Preservatives in a Surfactant Product.

I got this question in my DMs, and I would love to talk about it here. Feel free to ask me questions in my DMs. I can make dedicated posts for them. It is hard to answer those questions with detail in DMs.

Zachariah Kovac 7/6/26 Zachariah Kovac 7/6/26

Powdered vs. Liquid Panthanol

Panthenol is sold as both a powder and a liquid because the active ingredient can be supplied in different forms and concentrations.

Zachariah Kovac 7/3/26 Zachariah Kovac 7/3/26

Formulating with Essential Oils and Fragrance Oils

Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils, and Flavor Oils are not the same. Essential oils can be naturally derived from plants, have complex chemical compositions, and pose greater variability and oxidation concerns. Essential Oils can vary from batch to batch depending on the plant source, growing conditions, harvest timing, processing method, and storage conditions. Formulators and brands seeking "natural “formulations often use essential oils. Fragrance oils can be natural, synthetic, or a blend, providing consistent scent from batch to batch and often being more stable and less reactive.

Zachariah Kovac 6/26/26 Zachariah Kovac 6/26/26

Functional Groups in Cosmetic Chemistry: A Formulator’s Toolkit

After exploring hydrocarbons, esters, ethers, alcohols, carboxylic acids, ketones, aldehydes, and amines, one thing becomes clear:

Functional groups define how ingredients behave.

They determine everything from texture and stability to absorption, reactivity, and performance. For formulators, understanding functional groups isn’t just academic—it’s the foundation of intentional, high-performance formulation design.

Zachariah Kovac 6/22/26 Zachariah Kovac 6/22/26

Conditioning Effects of Cationic Amines in Hair Systems

Cationic amines (and their quaternary derivatives) are the backbone of modern hair conditioning. If you’ve ever wondered why a conditioner makes hair feel smoother, easier to detangle, and less frizzy—the answer is largely electrostatics and film formation driven by these ingredients.

Zachariah Kovac 6/19/26 Zachariah Kovac 6/19/26

Amines in Cosmetic Chemistry: pH Control, Conditioning, and Functional Versatility

Amines are one of the most functionally important—but often overlooked—classes of ingredients in cosmetic chemistry. Unlike emollients that primarily affect feel, amines influence how a formula behaves: its pH, stability, conditioning performance, and even preservation.

They are powerful tools—but require careful handling due to their reactivity.

Disclaimer:

You are at your own risk when making anything from this blog. I am not liable for any mishaps that may occur. I do my best to include everything in the procedure to minimize the likelihood of accidents. My recommendation is always to read the post entirely first and then make the product.
Please keep in mind that these recipes/formulations are NOT meant to be sold or reproduced in large quantities. None of my recipes has been appropriately stability tested. I recommend seeking professional help if you want to start your own line of business. (link)
Always test a patch of new ingredients before using them.
Comments and opinions written by authors on Cosmetic Your Ways are their own and do not represent the views of any past, present, or future employers.