After you find a reference formula, the next step you would want to take is adding more ingredients. Maybe substitute ingredients for what you have. In this post, I will tell you how to do that. This skill is a fundamental concept that you need to know how to do. This skill comes right after learning how to scale formulations, which you can learn here. (Link)
The first step is to know what the bulk of your formulation is. Is it water-based? Is it oil-based? Is it silicone based? Is it an emulsion? What are you using the most or highest percentage in your formulation?
In the case of a water-based formulation, you would add or subtract from the water to ensure that your formulation totals 100%. You would add or subtract the percentage from the primary oil for oil-based formulations. The primary oil is the one that you have the most of in your formulation. Sometimes the formulation can alter your discussion. For example, if you wanted to add an ester to a formulation to make it lightweight and have more slip, you would like to reduce the percentage of your heaviest oil. For example, let’s say this is your oil blend for a formulation.
Sunflower oil 90%
Castor oil 10%
You might found it to be quite heavy. So you have two options. You know you want to use an ester at 3%. You could subtract 3% from the sunflower oil to make the formulation look like this.
Formula: Subtraction from Sunflower Oil
Sunflower oil 87%
Isopropyl Myristate 3%
Castor oil 10%
Or you could subtract 3% from the castor oil, as you know it contributes the most to the heaviness.
Formula: Subtraction from Castor Oil
Sunflower oil 90%
Isopropyl Myristate 3%
Castor oil 7%
Essentially, you have options on what you subtract the 3% from. What is very important to understand is that no matter where you take it from, your formulation adds up to 100%. When it adds up to 100%, you know your formulation is at the correct percentages and can be scaled.
In the case of an emulsion, you need to know the solubility of the ingredients, heat tolerance, etc
Some considerations that would alter where you add the new ingredients. Suppose you wanted a specific oil phase or water phase percentage. For example, you wanted a 70% water phase. Or you might want a specific percentage of the oil phase, like 12%. I do this to get different viscosities, and skin feels for other applications on the body.
Want to Learn More?
Consider purchasing access to the diamond level blog.
1 Month Access to Diamond Level
Want to be a part of the Diamond Level Blog? Learn to formulate safe and stable cosmetics for you or your business. This is the way to access exclusive content on the website!
You must pay for the month before gaining access. Then I will manually add people. After that, you will be sent an email to set up your password. Once you have created a password, then you can access the content for that month.
For testimonials, see this page (Link).
1 Year Access Diamond Level
Want to be a part of the Diamond Level Blog? This is the way to access exclusive content on the website!
You must pay for it before gaining access. Then I will manually add people. You will be sent an email to set up your password. Once you have created a password, then you can access the content for that year. Two days before your membership ends, I will remind you. 😉
Want to look at all the options? Click Here
Introduction to DIY Cosmetics E-book
I have turned the Introduction to DIY Cosmetics series into an E-book. Learn the basics to formulate real cosmetics. Not the ones that you see on Pinterest.
37 pages with 7759 words, you are going to learn a lot!
Introduction to DIY Cosmetics Part 2
This is part two of the Introduction to DIY Cosmetics E-Books. You can think of it as an elevated intro, as it builds off of the first e-book. I cover the topics that I did not in the first one.
By the end of this e-book, you will be able to make your own skincare routine, understand how to make various skincare products that are professional level.
This e-Book is for all skill levels.
Topics that will include:
All purchases are final as there is no way to know if you get rid of the content. You have 30 days to download the content. After 30 days, you would need to repurchase to get access again. By purchasing, you agree to all the terms and conditions.
30 Days of Formulation Challenge
Let us be honest here; we all get into ruts with the formulation. We get used to the ingredients that we are using. Unless we get a new ingredient, we are not experimenting as much as we could be.
One thing that really helped me is thinking of different approaches to using ingredients that I have but making something new. That is how the idea of this E-book came up.
I wanted to create something that any skill level could get a benefit from in their formulation journey. From industry, pros to never formulated before.
If you are struggling with this, you can always email me through this challenge to get ideas or help. The point of this book is to get out of your comfort zone.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
You are at your own risk when making anything from this blog. I am not liable for any mishaps that may occur. I do my best to include everything in the procedure so, that accident are less likely occur!