Free Formulation: Babassu Lip Balm

5/6/2022

Frankly, I was in need of a lip balm and just threw this formulation together from other formulas that I have made. The base oil I choose was Safflower Oil. I have a post on the difference between sunflower and safflower oil and you can read that here (Link)

I got this idea from other lip balms that I have made. A typical lip balm formulation is a combination of base oil(s), coconut oil, cocoa butter, beeswax (or a vegan wax(s)), and vitamin E. In my basic vegan lip balm, I did not include any butters, and I realized what butters can do for a formulation. It adds a lot of the creaminess. It made it more of a salve than a lip balm. It was still great. So in this formulation, I have included some refined cocoa butter. I have to say I really like cocoa butter in my lip balms. It really adds some nice body to them. The next oil I was going to include is coconut oil, but then I realized that I do not have it. So I used babassu oil, and WOW! It really gave the balm a high-end feel. Babassu is very similar to coconut oil, but it is not greasy and has great slip. Since it is an ingredient that I have not shared on the blog. I am going to share an ingredient guide.

Babassu Oil:
Description: Babassu is a white solid oil at room temperature. It is obtained from the kernels of the Babassu palm which is found in the southern regions of Brazil. Babassu oil is cold-pressed and refined. Babassu Carrier Oil contains a high content of lauric and myristic acids which have melting points relatively close to the body temperature. This oil is refined, making it a wonderful addition to cosmetic products. Babassu Carrier Oil has similar properties as Coconut Oil. Babassu Oil makes the skin feel smooth and conditioned. This oil penetrates quickly without greasy aftertouch.
INCI Name: Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Usage: Can be used up to 100%. Typically used from 5-10% It should go into the heated oil phase of your formulation
Typical Composition
From New Directions Aromatics,
"C 12:0 : 40 - 48 %
C 14:0 : 15 - 20 %
C 16:0 : 7 - 11 %
C 18:1 : 10 - 15 %
Free Fatty Acids:
<0.1%"
Application: All kinds of skincare products, hair care, body care.
Sources and References:

To thicken this product, I am using beeswax. While it is not vegan. I really like how it adds to the creaminess of the formulation. If you want to know how to turn non-vegan balms vegan, I have a post on it here that you can read (link)
Finally, to reduce onset oxidation, I have included 1% vitamin E. I recommend that you use 1% as it is a hot pour product and some of the vitamin E will be wasted from the heat. In the one I made, I used mixed tocopherols 50%.

Formulation

Calculations:
100-(24+15+20+1)=40
Method:

Sanitize all your equipment, containers, and workspace.
Gather all your ingredients and ensure your notebook is set up.
In a glass beaker, add all your phase A ingredients.
Heat to 75C, over a double boiler, until fully melted.
While the mixture is melting, measure phase B in a glass beaker and ensure your packaging is ready. After it is melted, we have to go quickly.
Once melted, take off the heat and stir until 65C. Add phase B. Then pour the molten formula into your final packaging, and you are done. Don't forget to make labels.

Substitutions and Alterations:
For the base oil, you could use soothing else that your lips like. Of course consider the taste of the oil. I one time made the mistake of adding evening primrose oil to a lip formulation and it ruined the whole formulation.
If you do not have babassu oil, you can use coconut oil. I did not have coconut oil, so that is why I used babassu instead. Babassu just has lots of slip and almost an ester/silicone fell. So if you like lighter balms then this one would be great for you.
I used refined cocoa butter, you can use unrefined if you want to get that chocolate scent.
Want to make this balm vegan? Check out this post (Link)
If you live in a place that is warmer than California, I would increase the percentage of wax to make it firmer.
I used mixed tocopherols, you can use dl-tocopherol at the same percentage. Do not use tocopherol acetate, it is not the same read this post to learn more (Link)

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1 Comment

Amber Begay link

3/28/2023 03:50:29 am

Say goodbye to dry, chapped lips with this FREE formulation for Babassu Lip Balm! Made with nourishing ingredients like Babassu oil, beeswax, and shea butter, this lip balm is sure to leave your lips feeling soft and moisturized. Give it a try today!